The Empire Builder - Night Two "Loitering" Part II

When I walked in I was the only one in the place but I noticed they had my

favourite German beer on tap, Paulaner. I had drank many of a liter of these during my stay

in Germany at the time of the 2006 World Cup and therefore became very accustomed to the

yeasty Hefe-Veizen. Keith was the bartender at the time and we talked about John who

would soon be arriving to start his set. I had one Paulaner but it was just not enough

so a second and third arrived just in time as the place soon filled up. John walked in

and he seemed to know everyone either by name or face. As he made his way around the room

slowly taking his time toward the little platformed stage, he hugged and had small talk

with nearly everyone. As he tuned up more and more people flocked in. He started into his

set with an Irish sounding song . Before the second verse someone in

the crowd had bought John a shot of tequila. Then the second song started with another

shot from a different audience member. Then more and more as the night wore on. He begged for the audience to throw song after song at him and played nearly every request. Lilly

and her roomates eventually showed up but wanted to go to another show, I obliged but was

quickly left behind with everything in hand. I'm not too sure why they were in such a rush.

When we got to The Craggy Range, a place I have had the fortune to play before. I was

innodated with the loud obnoxious one lick riff raff of sad eyed hispter rock, I just had

to laugh and grab a beer. Lilly and I talked for a bit. It turns out she is an aspiring

snowboarder headed to Utah for a competition soon. She works the whole summer at a resort

and saves her money so she can take every winter off to snowboard. Not a bad gig at all.

The opener finished up as I took that last sip of guinness. It took them nearly half an hour

to tune and get set up. They kept mentioning how this was there first show in a long time

together, and well it showed. It sounded as if the opener had just taken a set break

during which time they drank a whole bottle of whiskey then turned up their amps to

compensate for their inequities. The bass player was phenomenally on point but drowned

out the drum which happened to be a good thing. Except for the bass player the rest of

them should've just stayed in their garage tonight. Song after song was littered with

the same themes same rhythms just re-affirming to me the conformities of the evening.

To their credit they sure knew how to pack a room with enegetic hipster drunks emptying their

wallets two and three fold. Most everyone was talking louder and louder they soon drowned

out the noise stuttering out from the corner boys. I had to get out of there. It was defeaning.

I grabbed my stuff and looked for Lilly. She was up front and center bobbin' her headed

right along with the rest. This was not the place to be, for me. I let one of her roomates know

I was headed back to Cooper's and to hit me up when they were headed out. Earlier in the evening she offered up her couch and since she was the only one I knew in town that was around tonight she was my only option. When I got back to Cooper's, Keith recognized me and bought me a Paulaner to ease my woes. John by now was being accopanied by a friend for the rest of the night. I did not catch his name but he was a good songwriter playing most of his own stuff with John backing up on banjo and electric guitar from time to time. They finished up their set and

John approached me thanking me for coming back. "You must be that guy with the guitar case."

"How'd you know?" "We smell our own." I asked him politely if I could play a song for him.

He obliged and we jammed out on some songs until Keith gave us the look. John and I traded

information. "Whenever you come back up to Whitefish, let me know." "For sure." I responded

and sat waiting for Lilly to get back in touch. After some time I recieved a message from her

saying they were headed home. I had been given no address and assumed I must inquire about

the couch put up for offer. I heard nothing back. I finished my beer and went wandering the

streets of Whitefish to find a place to settle for the evening. I passed by several bars with

mocking patrons. I must have been quite the sight. I kept warm from all the beer and figured

the best spot for me to post up would be the Train Depot since that was where the bus would

be picking me up in the morning. As the snow fell more and more I pondered my fate. Well

what else was there for me to do.

The Empire Builder - Day Two "Loitering" Part I

I spent most of the day at a coffeeshop reading and writing, smoking and drinking. I wanted

to reconnect with Lilly who I had met last time I was in Whitefish, MT. I had sent her a

message a few days earlier and received this response. "Of course I remember you, I was hoping

to get to see you again. So I will see you tomorow then to hear your lovely music ya!".

I received this text message at some point during my time at the coffeeshop. "Hey there kory it's lilly! Hope your train ride was good I'm heading up the mtn to snowboard but I will call you when

I'm down to chill before your show." So with some time to kill I put up a craigslist posting for a rideshare to Missoula. I have a lot of friends down there and a few shows lined up to play. I was unsure of bus schedules and all that jazz. I figured it would work itself out. Worse case scenario I could always just hitch it with

a sore thumb til it fell off. I'd done it before in Montana with varied results but I

always got where I needed to be. I called up my really good friend Matt Pierce to

re-connect since my last trip to Montana. He was, as is always the case, really excited

to see me. His hospitality is second to none. Then I called my mom and when she heard my last

resort idea, put $50 in my account and told me to buy a bus ticket, for her peace of mind.

I went to Library and did as I was told, and printed my boarding pass.

Since I was in town and the bars were beginning to open I went to the Great Northern for

some grub and to check out the venue. As I entered I heard the gutterol laughing of

barrel chested lumbering jacks knockin' back shots and beers slappin on backs takin' the

afternoon off away from their women and children. I was immediately asked for my ID and

what the deal is with my guitar was. "Are you playin' tonight?" "Yes, mam." "Who are you?"

"Kory Quinn." "Well we have Russ Nasset playin' tonight." "Really?" "Yup." "Can you double

check for me?" She smiled looked at the chalkboard and pointed. "Russ Nasset. Ain't that

what it says." beggin' me to speak my own fate. "So what would you like?"

"A whiskey and a beer." Damn. I thought as I took this shot of courage. I thought about

what I was gonna say. I called The Booker straight away. Straight to the answering machine.

I left a short message recounting the recent events. I don't think I'll ever be hearing from

them and vice versa. After some wandering around the bar, eating a meal, playing a few games

of pool, smoking stogs. A man approached me and asked what I was doin' with all that gear.

I told him my name and stated my business which now was relegated to loitering, the time

between gigs. David was well traveled himself he said. An architect by trade he spent time

living and/or working in New York, New Jersey, Boston, Austin, Houston, Nashville, Chicago,

Indianapolis, San Juan, Spokane, Seattle, Portland, Eugene, Berkeley, and LA. He suggested

I check out a place called Cooper's. Tonight there would be a guy by the name of John

Dunnigan playing at 8. David advised I introduce myself to him to see if I could sit in with him and play a few tunes. I thanked David very much for the information. He would be coming along a little later to see John and hoped to see me there. So I finished my beer and my game of pool, packed up my gear and took the short walk to Cooper's.

The Empire Builder - Day Two "The Worst Cup of Coffee....Ever"

I guess we're just really really really spoiled out there in Stumptown. Regardless of such bias there is no excuse, well maybe I'd be distracted from brewing horribly tepid battery acid because of the scenery too, especially if I had to work 14 hours on a train with little rest surrounded by Mother Earth and Father Sky. Here are some photos from this morning. Notice how I am looking down with disdain at the most horrendous of beverages.

And finally a picture of the last thing I saw pulling into Whitefish, which was rather fitting of a 17 hour Train ride.

.

The Empire Builder - Night One "Catchin' The Nor'easter Outta Spokane"

Pulled into Spokane about 12:30am. Through the grapevine we all heard that we had a four
hour layover. So after some research and self-debate I decided to hit the streets. The
main drag with the hoppin' bars was only a few blocks from the train station. I went inside
to check out the station and found a little cafe that an old asian couple was runnin'.
They had some very reasonable prices so I got a super grease trap cheeseburger.
After washing it down with some salty spokane fountain water I made the quick trek to the
drag; found a nice dry and covered spot with good projection. There was a delightful man
working his late night hot dog spot who seemed rather glad to have the entertainment, his
name was Vic. Next to me was what appeared to be a homeless couple whose eyes also opened
with a faint glint of joy when I started to unpack my guitar. After playing a few tunes
Vic spat out some names of songwriters he thought I would know. "Townes van Zandt?"
"He's one of my favourites." I squaked back. "Me too. If you could play one of his I'll buy
you a hot dog." "Sure, why not." Even with the cheeseburger fleshly metabolizing, my
stomach growled. At first I was to turn down the hot dog, but rather insisted he either
feed the hungry or the drunk. After a half an hour, I became worried the train was gonna
leave without me. So I packed up at which time I heard "Where are you from?" "Chicago."
"One Chicago Red Hot comin' up." Too wrapped up in the moment I obliged then took a bite.
In this moment I realized home truly is more than just a place. It's the tastes, the smells,
etc. It was then I noticed the homeless couple again. I offered the rest of it to them but
the old man said with a jeer. "Vic feeds us every night." Before I left I made sure to give
Vic a CD for his hospitality. I've had several bad experiences with food cart vendors in
Portland and their disdain for guerilla marketing. Which to me seems a bit oxymoronic or
at the very least ironic. Back to the train to recount the events and attempt to get some
shut-eye before I arrive tomorrow morning. Next stop Whitefish, Mt.

The Empire Builder - Day One "Got That Ticket to Ride"

I woke up, put in that last load of laundry, finished some last
minute errands, and met with some friends, as is the custom. I went and finished recording
a song I was commissioned by Scott to write for his wife Jen. It was to be a Christmas
present for Jen. Though I am sure she has had this notion for sometime. The final product,
I assume though, is still a mystery. I am excited to play this song live with Scott at the
release show, whenever that may be. I then returned to my current residence to find my
laundry was dry. So I packed my bags, had breakfast, two cups of coffee accompanied by the
subsequent cigarettes. I fitted my suit and guitar case on the bike and headed out on a few
pre-adventures. I got to see Amanda, one of my lovely roommates on the way. By the luck
of lady fortune we crossed paths. She on her way home and me on mine, though it be
circuitous. With several embraces and pecks on the cheeks she bid me a fine farwell, and I
to her, since she was headed back to Pennsylvania for the high holy days. Then it was off
to Bob's to drop off the bicycle he had lent to me for this last week. I have intentions to
purchase said bike but have neither the funds nor the time to finalize the deal. I just
might upon my return. There is a tender yearning in my heart to slowly caste out the
demons of oil and gas. Afterward I headed back to 55th and hoyt to say hello and goodbye
all at once to the boys. As usual Stephen was hammerin' away on some very dominant chords.
Kevin tossin in some very tasteful licks, and Jakob bangin' oh so sweetly on his
snare-tom-bass with the splish splash of his hi-hat-ride. Wang-dang and Kevin rolls into a
really hot riff raffin with Stephen clappin down on the ivories. The lyrics though drowned
out by the ordered chaos were extolled with such gusto to render ones ear to perk and
attempt the impossible. I said my peice grabbed a few last things, books, sleeves, and
blank CD's, which are now my only currency. I was offfered a spoonful of medicine and
washed it down quickly with a spot of wild turkey. It was but a short stroll to the train
line just north of 60th and glisan. There was no rush at all so I stopped at a convenience
store to procure a pack of stoggies and some snacks for the 15 hours of the first leg. I
arrived at Union Station in plenty of time to have another cupful of joe and handful of
smoke. The Photographer was impeccable with their time. We lounged and chatted for quite
sometime catching up since our last adventure which almost brought us into the custody of
the Portland Police. We lined up, got my boarding pass and then lined up again awaiting
depature. The Photographer holding my pillow, and I carrying all I dare to need. They
agreed to be my fluffer, though I doubt the inuendo gathered much steam. Though it did get
a laugh and a squeeze of the pillow. There were a few more photos taken on my way through
gate 6B. The crowd behind me wondering, no doubt, what sort of strange ax-murder they were
about to board with. A quick embrace along with the words, "In bocca al lupo". I settled
into car 13 and took note of the days events, so far.

liber V

liber V

leaving duluth we stopped for supplies and made some informal decisions

to camp the night. after an hour or so of joking, smoking, and driving

back south we picked a state park just off the interstate. in fact

i remember the highway cutting right through the path of several, guiding

us to our history, taking us to our fate. after pitching the tent and

struggling to start a fire with freshly dampened wood. we even bought

some at the gate, like good little tourists, but it was wet as well.

so to no avail and 6 beers later,

we went for a tromp through the woods. we had some map they gave us at

the gate, like good little tourists but failed to remember to bring it,

like good little tourists.

following the path in circles it seemed. losing the path altogether

and deciding to just get moving toward some river the rangers had mentioned.

bushwack those ferns. hop this log. ohh whats that. looks like somebody's

home. a nice nest i'm guessing. and then the rush of the st. croix river

running in the distance. a herd of horses passing in a breeze. finding a

simple place to sit and gaze into the river's flow, we took off our shoes and

socks to dangle our feet in the fresh clean water. still without a shower.

busting out the whiskey. he staked some claim that there were animals and

creepy crawlies in the water. i assured him "yeah, probably, leeches

main..." "Leeches!" it escaped him before i had finished. "yeah, no big deal,

you probably won't catch anthing." i was unaware of how my up bringing

had been nothing but well-rounded, but lacking discipline. i couldn't

understand the aversion to life but to each their own. needless to say

after several conversations exaulting our pride that we were on our own

a few spats to see who might fall in, and fumbling with our wit and

strange associations, his feet were covered in leeches. i counted

at least 5 just on his right foot. after laughing and gathering the

humor in the moment, i helped him pick them off, or maybe he did that himself.

drying our feet, rolling on our socks, stringing up our shoes, we headed

back the road we took, a pet-peev of mine, but it had turned dark, and i decided

not voice this. getting back to the site we though it might be a good idea

to move camp. we were the only one's around, it seemed, except for that old

couple who have probably lived there since march, the only one's that mattered.

throwing the tent on the car, sleeping bags and all, who wants to undo whats just

been done. we drove the 500 feet or so to a campsite with some more cover, rain

was brewing in the air. after settling in and getting a fire started, finally,

we got out dinner and went to town. cutting up this, chopping that, frying up

some salami and cheese on a make shift skillet. we played music and laughed into

the evening. two together at the hour of the wolf. howling at the moon.

i wonder why i had not done this earlier. i had the opportunities. i had

the self-reliance. and the luck. this was great and i believe he felt the same.

liber III and IV

LIBER III

we wound out of the last gas station in town and hit the sweeping backroads of a wisconsin after midnight. i remember two shadowy black clouds lingering about in the clear sky. ominous but

strikingly beautiful. i thought about the road further up ahead, the road further back behind, but i was drawn into their passing. i fast lost track of where i was, where i've been, and where i was going. i fell into the darkness to try to dream a dream with a happy ending. we arrived at the farmer's market in the early hours after another fuel up and a caffiene injection. we sat idle as the trucks were unloading in the frosty pre-dawn minnesota morning. it was still dark out. i could still see the stars. after some jostling to get comfortable, at least as much as anyone could

in a packed car, we lingered in the silence. as we huddled in the car that night far from the cold breathe of the north country air, the headlamps were burning bright. in mere hours, the faintest shimmer of sunrise could be seen reflecting off the sky scraping windows of downtown st. paul. the farmer's market was somewhat located between the two cities so that we were positioned across the river on the west bank. we finally woke to be greeted by the hustle bustle through a white-washed windsheild and a dead battery.

carefully assessing the situation and the issue at hand. we got some coffee and wandered through the stalls. we saw some razzle dazzle produce vendors. lots of in season berries, flowers, and tomatoes. they poured out from all directions and hasted the attention this way and that. memories of caprese salad. the first flowers i had given to a girl, which were subsequently thrown to the trash. slowly rising fresh baked blueberry muffins in the oven. as we wished, we

languished in the tight thouroughfares. there were many voices and noises. through it all though i thought i caught the faint sound of a cello, nevermind just the squeeky brakes of a slowly backing pick-up truck. as we moved on there was a local artisan fellow who made tin sculptures of every imaginable animal. they were painstakingly painted. he stood overseeing his cageless jungle zoo. the master craftsmen of his scrap metal utopia. there were frogs and elk, and moose, and cows, and big midwestern trees of the variety disiduous. then there was a pack of wild roosters that seemed to follow us around. as we ventured on into each ally of the bizaar there seemed to be a

rooster of some size and personality waiting for us. there was a wooden carving of one about the form of a midget with this big ole cheesire grin. he was located on the opposite side of

the market. there were little one's on necklaces being sold by some big strange women of scandanavian decent. she lorded over them with disparaging eyes for the passer byes and prospective buyers. only earlier that week we had seen the bust of a rooster attached to the

roof of a limosine but in hyde park. as we scoured the last row i gave up hope. a found David McGee was not to be.

we lingered back to the car weighing options of whether or not to take the advantage of the moment and play for coins. i believe i passed on the chance citing my reasons as it was cold and that we had missed the peak hours of attendence. i am not sure why i backed away with cowardice. too attached maybe to the most immediate venture of how to get the car started again. we approached the mighty can can, as we had dubbed her. we entered and sat for sometime debating. eventually i made the choice to brave the weather once again and search out a welfared action of humanity. one lady passed in her van. she didn't have jumper cables and neither did we; at least we thought. the next car was not even interested in stopping to give us bad news. somewhat defeated i turned around to a suburban backing in in front of us. a great big family of midwestern folks. we asked and they obliged but they were going to do some shopping around first. after a short period, during which we took the time to tear apart the freshly packed

trunk for cables, the two men of the family appeared. a son and a father. they had found us some jumper cables and so did we! so much fortune had befallen us in our happenstance. we jumped the battery. we were quickly on our way, but not after formal gratitudes and a handing off of some wares in trade. we were back in business and in enough time to make the show in duluth. an industrial capital forged from the iron belt. built with the hands of great lake sailors.

LIBER IV

lost. we made some wrong turns and ended up going west when we should have been headed north. what a confusing set of interstates. we stopped for a gas up, got directions and forged ahead. the road we traveled was lined with pine. clear blue skies caved in from above. for just a few hours we wound the curves, gazed down the straights toward the mighty port town of the north. trudging up an enormous hill we gazed down over duluth with eyes freshly glazed. we arrived earlier than needed and most shops were open. so we staked out the venue of the evening. a nice comfy spot with affordable prices. a quick sandwich and a walk around the area. we hit the town with adventure fresh in the bones. stopping at the local instrument shop minutes before they opened we meandered the block, biding our time. it was just a quick stop to pick up some strings and a new capo. in the midst of moving, i had misplaced the one i had and was in need of a replacement, since we would be on the road for a few months. we then went for a drive. we saw a mountain and decided to climb it. going through some neighborhoods we thought would provide a way to the top, we crossed some abandoned railroad tracks only to be met by a man. an old man. he told us to turn around and not only go back from where we came but to leave town by way of a bridge to wisconsin, not yet crossed or even seen.

headed back away we snaked around the shadow side. eventually topping the mount, nearly. still above us to the left was a 30 foot march. he took the path, i climbed a tricky slope. arriving nearly at the same time, we sat and gloried over the valley. a lake sat square in the distance. its shores slowly wrapping, hugging the land with gentle embrace. the passing ships seem stilled in the superiour. the north wind came swinging in later that day but at the time it seemed quited by our most recent accomplishment. we had ten mountains to climb. this was the first. after a straight back down hill slide running dodging in an out the saplinged trees. well why not lets check out the other side of the river. across that bridge we were so lucky to hear about. jumping back in can can then turn up the music and scream back down the mountain. ahhhhhhhh! one way streets everywhere. confused without the map we missed the turn and went this way and that. back and forth. round a few corners. we were fortuned by luck, the bridge entrance stood right before us. over into superior, wisconsin. a quick read through the streets nearest the

other side of the bridge we determined that the people we planned to play to were humble midwest folks, aware of their inequities. heart on sleeve kind of people. with honesty and sincerity as the only necessities. back across the bridge we pandered to duluth's subtle hint at tourism. the paid parking lot for a beach to rival any boardwalk this side of kenosha. it mocked the free parking spots just across the street. we found a few remnants of the old dock yards. large log type posts i sat on and pretended to be james dean. the anchor he sat on. an image concocted from some hieronymus bosch paranoia. ironic, fitting, and just. we gathered some notes from the light house at the end of the pier. a little history of duluth. by now i've nearly forgotten it. there are just a few things i now remember. it used to be Ojibwa and it had been home to millionaires overseeing their port operations. the north coast side over looking the lake was littered with mansions and white lawn furniture. we could see them from the light house. back to the car and headed to the venue. but we still had some time to kill. we parked near the coffee house i think its name was beaners. there was a bierhaus just across the corner. we stopped in for some hefty pints. right away we got asked if we had just pulled into port. damn i must've looked hagard. slamming down those 36 oz. beers took a little out of me. back to beaners for some coffee and possibly another beer before i got going. during the sound check the people filed in. most of them for the local opener catering to need of an audience for the traveling musician. i forget their names but their were most

helpful making it feel like home. afterwards were approached by two young ladies asking about the road trip we had begun. we fast made friends with Liz O'Brien and Ky, her best of friends. to paraphrase the moment, we were invited back to her house for some drinks. first though we had to get some more beer. as we got the car packed we were instructed to follow. we got on a freeway and fast approaching was wisconsin. we didn't know at the time. it turns out, we found out later at liz's house, that duluth has some laws in place to curb the drinking culture so prevalent, no doubt some age old ruins left over from the prohibition years. also they must have felt morally higher in class to their cheese head counter parts across the river. i don't blame

them, it seems logical to me. picking up some beer and those little bottles of whiskey we

headed back up that same mountain we had earlier, but this time we went up the lake side where we past the mansions. back round the back side of the mountain we went through some forest and stopped at ky's house to pick up some more supplies. then we kept driving and quickly the girls in the other car were stepping on the brakes in successive blinking and waved for us to usher towards them. "you're lights are off!" liz mentioned with a hint of sarcasm.

"oh." and they sped off with us chasing wildly after them, a gas station, a sharp left turn and several winding ones later we parked in a gravel drive with the strange figure of a person hanging off to the right. we pushed through a few bags, grabbed the essentials and moved in for the evening. "what was that thing out there?" liz made no mention of it. we stayed up late into

the night drinking, playing music, cards, telling stories and laughing. hit the floor in the old sleeping bag. out. dream. maybe. wake. i think i hear singing, and the smell of food. maybe. after a few cups of coffee we got liz to talk with us, about her life, her dog, her music. during the festivities the night before ky pushed liz to play and sing for us. turns out she has a great voice and is very intuitive at songwriting. she played some of her songs and it was suggested we try a duet. not sure if it was her or i but i say we. it was a beautiful morning. we walked together down the road a little bit. a love kind of like a new used bike. after some more coffee, she suggested this bakery downtown we might like to visit and procure some goods. she had once worked there and had some friends working there. we would get a good deal if we just hint a name. we hopped in the car. and took one last look at liz, and that strange figure hanging from the clothes line. turns out it was intended as some joke liz and ky pulled off, they just haven't taken it down yet.